Huế


Let me start by saying that these pictures aren't representative enough of Huế. It was raining hard the entire time we were there, which made picture taking kind of rough. The rain, and then the floods, didn't stop anyone from what they were doing, but even when the lens wasn't steamed up it was hard to catch the laid-back, spacious and dignified feel of the place. (Mud and dignity are an unstable mix.) The same week we were there, Bill Clinton cancelled his visit to Huế. Though we were soaked, sloshy and mildewed, at least we didn't make the same mistake as Mr. Clinton.

Huế is now a provincial capital, but for over 150 years, it was the capital of Vietnam. The Nguyễn emperors built themselves beautiful tombs, and lived better as dead people than most of us do while we're alive. They had an impact on the food (lots of small, varied and artful dishes), and also left a tradition of court classical music.

* = Duyên's photo

Click for a larger version Huế Teachers University

Huế has 5 universities, with many foreign teachers who happily stay on after the exchange period is over.

Click for a larger version The Citadel

Built by the Nguyễn emperors, this was the scene of some of the fiercest fighting in the American war. Sadly, a lot of the Citadel is now used for farming.

Click for a larger version Citadel entrance

(Note the great weather.) There's watercress growing on either side of the bridge.

Click for a larger version Citadel interior
Click for a larger version Pavillion

As seen from a raised garden

Click for a larger version Pavillion

With a bulbous-nosed dragon guarding the stairs

Click for a larger version *Pavillion garden
Click for a larger version Farther on in the citadel

The dragons' faces remind me of New York cab drivers.

Click for a larger version The Hall of the Left Mandarin

Next to the Hall of the Left Luggage. The Right Mandarin has a matching hall on the other side of the square.

Click for a larger version Hall of Left Mandarin Interior

If this is how the mandarins conducted their business, you can imagine how the emperors ran theirs.

Click for a larger version Flooded

Hard to tell the where street begins and the river ends. This was the view as we went across Huế by cyclo to take in the sights. We had just looked at a large Buddhist stupa. 

For the local residents, this was only a minor hiccup.

Click for a larger version Vase in the museum, with gremlins

Unfortunately, the museum roof had water pouring in. Vietnam is starting to realize how important history (and tourism) is, but the money to upgrade everything won't come overnight.

Click for a larger version Khải Định's mausoleum

Khải Định was the father of Bão Đại, the last Vietnamese emperor. During his nine-year reign, the French were the ones really running the show. His tomb combines Vietnamese and Western styles.

Click for a larger version Front of the main building
Click for a larger version Life-sized statues of mandarins in the courtyard.

Some clever tourist posed with them in his rain slicker.

Click for a larger version Khải Định mausoleum interior

(Pardon the horrible lighting.) A painting of Khải Định and other bric-a-brac. The walls behind incorporate bits of broken glass bottles into the pattern, a uniquely Vietnamese way of decorating.

Click for a larger version Tự Đức's mausoleum

It's an enormous park with many buildings, which took years to complete. Tự Đức used the place while he was still alive.

Click for a larger version Also at Tự Đức

The lake is an artificial moat for one of the tombs

Click for a larger version *Huế musicians in a barge

Zither, snakeskin fiddle, monochord, percussion and singers.

Click for a larger version *At the cultural center

We walked in on a rehearsal of some rousing communist tunes. There was plenty of showmanship, and what they were lacking in talent, they amply made up for in lack of talent. Maybe their parents will attend.